Traditional bow perch

[Jack Merlin]

As one of the older falconers on here, I am rather shocked that a lot of younger falconers do not know how to make a bow perch and pay good money for those lethal pieces of iron mongery on Ebay! A natural bow perch takes about half an hour to make and costs nothing.

I think the pictures are self-explanatory, but here goes.

Picture 1: Completed bow perch on the left, the raw material on the right. This one is for a goshawk. The hazel staff is about eight foot long and two inches in diameter at the small end. It is easier to bend while it is still green, otherwise soak it in water for a few days or steam it for a few hours.

Picture 2: The first job is to attach plain 2.5mm - 3.0mm high tensile fencing wire to ONE end about 15 inches from one end. (Any fencing contractor will have short ends that usually go to the dump). I wrap it around twice, then twist it onto itself to secure and bend the end back over itself to break it off, then secure it with small netting staples to stop it slipping. You need strong hands for this!

Picture 3: Before you do anything else, put your ring onto the bow. You can buy rings from a sadler or ships' chandler. Or you can easily make one by forming 1/4 inch stainless steel rod into a circle (try heating it and using a ring spanner as a lever to bend it), then welding the ends together.

Picture 4: I use an old ratchet strap to bend the staff. Considerable force is needed to make a big bow perch for a goshawk! To get an even curve, try moving the strap and re-bending. Or wedging the staff somehow and bending where the curve is shallowest. Over-bend the bow a bit as it will tend to straighten when you remove the strap.

Secure the other end of your wire as tightly as you can at the other end of the bow as previously and release the strap. The bow will attemp to straighten out tightening the wire like a "bow string".

The uprights of the bow (where the wire is attached at each end) should be NO MORE THAN 45 DEGREES TO THE HORIZONTAL. Making the uprights any steeper is the sure mark of a beginner! The slope needs to be shallow so the ring will easily pull from one end to the other. No padding is required. (Birds perch on branches all the time!).

Last, to fix one of these bow perches into position, you need to dig each end in. The perch is finally secured by driving three or four large staples 12 inches to 18 inches long (made from fencing wire bent to a U shape) across the "bow string" so that it is below ground level.

Using the above set up, the only things you should need to buy are half a dozen small netting staples. I pick my ratchet straps up off the road, the hazel staff is cut out of a local wood, the fencing wire is scrounged, and I make up my own rings. What is more, this is the only type of perch I know to be virtually 100% safe. Obviously, all sizes are scaled down for a sparrowhawk or Coopers.

[Yarak1]

Now show us the portable version Jack...........

[Lurcer]

Thanks Jack, think i may attemt a go at that, being a younger falconer (18) its good to have a bit of traditional insite to the sport, any other top tradition tips, pm me, would be more than interested..... thanks stu

[Tim Laycock]

Good thread Derry,
But remember that not all the perches on ebay are "lethal pieces of iron mongery" :yawinkle:

[Hawkmaster]

Thanks Derry nice old skill that you have preserved there!
Thanks for the pictures too!

[Jack Merlin]

Now show us the portable version Jack...........

Delighted too! But first show me the metal perch that cannot snag the leash.

[Tim Laycock]

I could show you one but you have already seen it <vbg>

[Lurcer]

well said jack!! i have had 3 snagging metal perchas all from reputable companies, i currently use a raptor post.... best so far!!!
stu

[Yarak1]

Delighted too! But first show me the metal perch that cannot snag the leash.

I use Jim Moss.Crown Falconry bow perches.....never had a snag yet..........Rubber is tapered off beautifully .......ring slides over everytime...........best bow on the market.......

[Jack Merlin]

I could show you one but you have already seen it <vbg>

You don't count. You have a brain and know how to use it!<g>

(But don't let it go to your head).

BTW, I expect KK and the GB to consumate their recent nuptuals within the next couple of days. They were happily preening on the same perch 15 inches from each other today and KK keeps taking her small tokens of his love. My eye is glued to the video camera through the one way glass, just waiting for the porno bits to happen!<g>

[Yarak1]

well said jack!! i have had 3 snagging metal perchas all from reputable companies, i currently use a raptor post.... best so far!!!
stu

So what is your bird tethered to when it bathes then? Long way down from a raptor post!!!!

[Sean]

derry, with the rachet strap, did you not need to steam it this time? i have been interested in making one, but instead my dads friend made one in work for free. but its useless, and i was gonna fork out 40 quid on a new one. but i love the traditional look. thing that prevented me was the steamign part, and reconising hazel in a wood lol

[Kevin Massey]

derry i followed the thread on this last time....it was great..however i didnt get around to accualy make one:roll: :oops:

[Jimmy]

The downside to a perch made that way is that if something really strange ever happens and the wood rots or breaks, you have a bird flying around with a leash and ring attached to it. Certain death for the bird.
That will never happen with a properly made steel bowperch. I'm all for doing things in traditional ways, but modern ways are sometimes better.

[Fawkes]

I'm not sure we get hazel here...
Are there other suitable types of wood? Perhaps some kind of conifer... ? Plenty of those around here :P

[Jack Merlin]

derry, with the rachet strap, did you not need to steam it this time? i have been interested in making one, but instead my dads friend made one in work for free. but its useless, and i was gonna fork out 40 quid on a new one. but i love the traditional look. thing that prevented me was the steamign part, and reconising hazel in a wood lol

Sean,

That piece of hazel was lying around here for a while and probably dried out a bit. It required quite a bit of force to get it to bend at all. If you try to bend it soon after the staff is cut, it should bend OK. But you will find it quite difficult to break -- which is why I suggest it.

You are in luck. My design is, of course, patented -- but you can use it for only £20. That's a 50% saving!!<vbg>

Hazel should be quite common in Northern Ireland. Any countryman will help you with identification. You need to look in sheltered spots which sheep cannot access (they eat it!).

Try this:

http://www-saps.plantsci.cam.ac.uk/trees/list.htm

and a Northern Irish site:

http://www.toof.org.uk/tree_and_shrub_information/tree_and_shrub_information.html

It is important to get your identification right. If you use birch (for example), the wood will rot very quickly and become brittle, the perch will break and you will lose your hawk. Birch, sometimes called Silver Birch, has a silvery bark (what a surprise!). Great firewood but lousy timber. Hazel will rot too, but not so quickly, so remember to check your equipment regularly.

[Jack Merlin]

I'm not sure we get hazel here...
Are there other suitable types of wood? Perhaps some kind of conifer... ? Plenty of those around here :P

Do you get maple??<g> I think that might be OK. Oak or ash might be better.

I suspect coniferous woods might break clean. The reason I use hazel is because I can find straight lengths and it is difficult to break. It can be bent and will crack along it's length, but it is very difficult to break clean even when bent to extremes. Obviously, it is safer to use this type of wood for a bent perch for this reason.

It might be an idea to over-bend a sample of the wood you intend using just to see what happens. Also, look around for dead branches and see how easy they are to break over your knee. In other words, use your brain rather than your credit card.<g>

[Jack Merlin]

The downside to a perch made that way is that if something really strange ever happens and the wood rots or breaks, you have a bird flying around with a leash and ring attached to it. Certain death for the bird.
That will never happen with a properly made steel bowperch. I'm all for doing things in traditional ways, but modern ways are sometimes better.

I've covered this in another post. It is up to you to test the wood you intend to use. I suggest hazel because (a) it is easy to bend, (b) it is fairly common in the UK, (c) the wood has been used for similar purposes for hundreds of years, (d) it is difficult to break although it will split length-wise, (e) it is cheap! Etc.

There is no compulsion here. If you want to buy a steel bow perch, that is what you should do.<g>

[Jack Merlin]

I use Jim Moss.Crown Falconry bow perches.....never had a snag yet..........Rubber is tapered off beautifully .......ring slides over everytime...........best bow on the market.......

I've been crossing the road without an accident for over half a century. But I still look both ways!<g>

[Yarak1]

The downside to a perch made that way is that if something really strange ever happens and the wood rots or breaks, you have a bird flying around with a leash and ring attached to it. Certain death for the bird.
That will never happen with a properly made steel bowperch. I'm all for doing things in traditional ways, but modern ways are sometimes better.

Agreed with you there Jimmy, also it can't do the birds feet much good either when the top of the bow loses the bark and goes shiny...............Means the bird is always gripping to hold on, then no air travels under the foot....small cut on underside of foot would then have a great chance of becoming bumblefoot!!

[Yarak1]

QUOTE]No padding is required. (Birds perch on branches all the time!).[/quote]

Yes Jack, but birds in the wild move from branch to branch.........

When the bark wears off that bow the bird is left sitting on a shiny surface and having to grip all the time.............doesn't do the birds feet any good with no air circulating between bow and underside of foot........any small cut or punture on the bottom of the foot has a great chance of becoming bumblefoot................
I like traditional but not that traditional!! We sometimes have to move with the times Jack.............Anyway not all metal bows are like those on e-bay....there are some bloody brilliant steel bows out there that never snag..........

[Lurcer]

So what is your bird tethered to when it bathes then? Long way down from a raptor post!!!!

it has ample time to bath when it feels like it in its sunlit aviary...... she does take the odd dip in 2 the edge of the local duck pond too....

[Lurcer]

QUOTE]No padding is required. (Birds perch on branches all the time!).

Yes Jack, but birds in the wild move from branch to branch.........

When the bark falls off that bow the bird is left sitting on a shiny surface and having to grip all the time.............doesn't do the birds feet any good with no air circulating between bow and underside of foot........any small cut or punture on the bottom of the foot has a great chance of becoming bumblefoot................
I like traditional but not that traditional!! We sometimes have to move with the times Jack.............Anyway not all metal bows are like those on e-bay....there are some bloody brilliant steel bows out there that never snag..........[/QUOTE]


Do all wild birds have bumble foot??? or do they now fit there own astroturf to thier branches as they go....so long as perches are keapt clean and **** free bumble foot will very rarely take hold.... stu

[Tim Laycock]

Bark falls off the branch :rolleyes:

Change it then!

It cost nothing :yawinkle:

[Yarak1]

I've been crossing the road without an accident for over half a century. But I still look both ways!<g>

Each to their own Jack................

[Yarak1]

Bark falls off the branch :rolleyes:

Change it then!

It cost nothing :yawinkle:

Yeah but some people don't do they....seen it in lots of places, perch is so shiny they can't grip on it...........
Each to their own mate..!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Pitbull]

if your the type of person that change the jesses and anklets bewets etc etc whats wrong with bending another hazel. And the bark doesnt 1 day just fall off, it weathers. But no good for hard ground

I have a steel bow from crown and apart from the bobbles deteriating a great perch

[Yarak1]

[


Do all wild birds have bumble foot??? or do they now fit there own astroturf to thier branches as they go....so long as perches are keapt clean and **** free bumble foot will very rarely take hold.... stu[/QUOTE]

No need for sarcasm mate...................Branches in the wild on trees are rarely smooth are they??...........

For your information...Bumblefoot can be caused my a punture on the underside of the foot not getting air to it.......after all it is an infection is it not???

[Yarak1]

if your the type of person that change the jesses and anklets bewets etc etc whats wrong with bending another hazel. And the bark doesnt 1 day just fall off, it weathers.

I have a steel bow from crown and apart from the bobbles deteriating a great perch

Each to their own............no probs......

[Yarak1]

it has ample time to bath when it feels like it in its sunlit aviary...... she does take the odd dip in 2 the edge of the local duck pond too....

Great mate...........

[Tim Laycock]

Yeah but some people don't do they....seen it in lots of places, perch is so shiny they can't grip on it...........
Each to their own mate..!!!!!!!!!!!!

Aside from these obvious flaws do you still argue that the hazel bow can be bettered?

[Sean]

derry, if i soak the staff overnight in a bath will it be easier to bend. also, on the ends, do you burn them or anythign to prevent moisture getting up the steam of it?
thanks

[Yarak1]

Aside from these obvious flaws do you still argue that the hazel bow can be bettered?

Depends on how you mean by bettered?...........if you mean better or the same in as much as no snagging then the bows I use which never snag on the ring I would consider better as they can be moved easily and made from stainless they are a long term prospect which the hazel bow isn't.........But also the way the bird is tethered to the bow is as important as anything else...too long a tether and the bird gets tangled round the end of the bow........with the best non tangling bow in the world it still comes down to the falconer and the way he tethers at the end of the day.

The tethering shown on that hazel bow in my opinion is far to long and enables the bird to walk around the far end of the bow ( opposite end to the ring) and back under the bow which will snag the bird up bigtime.................if you think that this is fine then you and Jack have no argument about the best bows for no snagging of the leash!!!

[AndyYounger]

quite interesting but ive got a few reservations. in my general husbandry cleanliness and hygine are very important. when the wood is dry will it not become like a sponge and soak up any blood etc from the hawks food or hawks feet. this wll then create bacteria and potentially create problems.

i, like all of you have my own opinion and will stick to it. i currently use bows from crown falconry, spiked and weighted, i find that these can be kept very clean with ease and have never had any snagging problems. i also think that using a wooden bow would unsettle me as i would always be looking for signs of weekness that could lead to the wood splitting and hurting the bird, or worse breaking and the bird flying off fully furnished with leash and ring attatched with 2 falconers knots(fatal).

Its not for me . i kneed to know my birds are as safe as possible and if there is a chance something may happen to then no matter how small i would have to address it. metal and rubber is stronger and cleaner. but yes more expensive. so what! WHAT PRICE DO YOU PUT ON YOU PRIDE AN JOY.

[AndyYounger]

dose this traditional way of thinking date back to before swivells were used. and what purpose dose the exceptionally long jesses and leash serve. could the gos in the photo not walk round the end of the bow and back underneath it. creating a big snag!

[Yarak1]

Delighted too! But first show me the metal perch that cannot snag the leash.


The tethering shown on that hazel bow in my opinion is far to long and enables the bird to walk around the far end of the bow ( opposite end to the ring) and back under the bow which will snag the bird up bigtime.................if you think that this is fine Jack then you have no argument about the best bows for no snagging of the leash!!!

Most snags on bows are caused by poor tethering not always the design of the bow itself!!!!!!!!!!!. Or the material used ( Metal or Wood )

[Tim Laycock]

Depends on how you mean by bettered?...........if you mean better or the same in as much as no snagging then the bows I use which never snag on the ring I would consider better as they can be moved easily and made from stainless they are a long term prospect which the hazel bow isn't.........But also the way the bird is tethered to the bow is as important as anything else...too long a tether and the bird gets tangled round the end of the bow........with the best non tangling bow in the world it still comes down to the falconer and the way he tethers at the end of the day.

The tethering shown on that hazel bow in my opinion is far to long and enables the bird to walk around the far end of the bow ( opposite end to the ring) and back under the bow which will snag the bird up bigtime.................if you think that this is fine then you and Jack have no argument about the best bows for no snagging of the leash!!!



I will rephrase my question as it was obviously not concise enough:rolleyes:

Aside from the obvious flaws and assuming the falconer who made and ultimatly tethers his bird to it is not the complete and utter f***wit you seem to be allowing for, do you believe it can be bettered as a suitable perch for a shortwinged hawk?

If you believe the leash will snag then please explain how.

A simple sketch would speak a thousand words :yawinkle:

[Dave G]

:rolleyes: the traditional hazel bow was and art in its own rite ??? but todays bow perches are much safer as if its a good solid bow perch and has a good ring which flows nicely over the bow then how the hell a hawk can get tangled i never know ??? ohhh and the leash length is not too long ;)

[Lurcer]

sorry didnt mean for the sarcasm!! jacks pearch is made from natuaral bark (nat being perfectly smooth) i do know how bumble foot is formed, and agrre that yes if your bird has a small cut on the underside of the foot, then best to keep it in air as aprecaution, hence a raptor post or bow, but in the average day jacks pearch would be cheap, and perfectly suitable for a bird to pearch on........ stu

[Yarak1]

I will rephrase my question as it was obviously not concise enough:rolleyes:

Aside from the obvious flaws and assuming the falconer who made and ultimatly tethers his bird to it is not the complete and utter f***wit you seem to be allowing for, do you believe it can be bettered as a suitable perch for a shortwinged hawk?

If you believe the leash will snag then please explain how.

A simple sketch would speak a thousand words :yawinkle:

Whoaa, hold on mate....first off don't be so aggressive and read your own post...........

You asked me if I thought it could be bettered???????

I gave you the answer.............................

I also said that a lot of snags were caused by the falconer tethering and the bow was not always to blame..............
I use Jim moss ( crown Falconry) for my bows...........I find that they are better than any other bows I have tried as he seems to be the only person I know of that gets the taper on the rubber correct so that the ring can't snag...........If you want a sketch just look at his website...........

[Yarak1]

[[/QUOTE]
but in the average day jacks pearch would be cheap, and perfectly suitable for a bird to pearch on......

I agree with you.........But times have moved on..........I am always of the opinion if you want to use the cheapest materials to equip and perch your bird on .....should you really have a bird??

To me the hazel bow is a good bow in it's own right, but for the welfare of birds feet it is not..........but that is my opinion to which I am entitled to............

[Sean]

on jacks trolly system post, the bows bark is mostly gone, it seems fine to me tho, and easyly washed?

[Tim Laycock]

Whoaa, hold on mate....first off don't be so aggressive and read your own post...........

You asked me if I thought it could be bettered???????

I gave you the answer.............................

I also said that a lot of snags were caused by the falconer tethering and the bow was not always to blame..............
I use Jim moss ( crown Falconry) for my bows...........I find that they are better than any other bows I have tried as he seems to be the only person I know of that gets the taper on the rubber correct so that the ring can't snag...........If you want a sketch just look at his website...........

Where was the aggression, If you thought that was aggressive It simply hilights the fact you have not been here very long and dont know me well at all :!:

I was simply trying to further the debate :rolleyes:

I think you would do well to try and read my post again! :lol:

(I certainly have no need for a sketch, I understand the mechanics and pitfalls of a badly designed bow better than most and simply wanted to expand the thread for others)

[Yarak1]

Where was the aggression, If you thought that was aggressive It simply hilights the fact you have not been here very long and dont know me well at all :!:

I was simply trying to further the debate :rolleyes:

I think you would do well to try and read my post again! :lol:

(I certainly have no need for a sketch, I understand the mechanics and pitfalls of a badly designed bow better than most and simply wanted to expand the thread for others)

Ok forget the other posts...........

You asked me if it could be bettered..........
This was my answer..........

Depends on how you mean by bettered?...........if you mean better or the same in as much as no snagging then the bows I use which never snag on the ring I would consider better as they can be moved easily and made from stainless they are a long term prospect which the hazel bow isn't......... I use Crown Falconry bows...........

[Tim Laycock]

Im not talking amout portability!

Is your bought bow more snag free than the Hazel bow?

Anymore plugs for crown falconry? :rolleyes: :wink:

[Budfin]

I use Jim Moss.Crown Falconry bow perches.....never had a snag yet..........Rubber is tapered off beautifully .......ring slides over everytime...........best bow on the market.......

I second that, totally agree.

[Jack Merlin]

derry, if i soak the staff overnight in a bath will it be easier to bend. also, on the ends, do you burn them or anythign to prevent moisture getting up the steam of it?
thanks

If you cut the staff green, it is full of sap. You can soak it all you like but it will not take up any more moisture.

No need to do anything to the ends.

BTW, there is a chance the bow will sprout and grow as hazel can be grown from cuttings!<vbg>

[Yarak1]

Im not talking amout portability!

Is your bought bow more snag free than the Hazel bow?

Anymore plugs for crown falconry? :rolleyes: :wink:


It is as snag free as the hazel bow..........

As for plugs for crown falconry? If I use their bows then I have every right to say so.........

[Jack Merlin]

:rolleyes: the traditional hazel bow was and art in its own rite ??? but todays bow perches are much safer as if its a good solid bow perch and has a good ring which flows nicely over the bow then how the hell a hawk can get tangled i never know ??? ohhh and the leash length is not too long ;)

The steel bow perches has to have a raised padded area for the bird to perch on. That is where the leash snags. But if you don't have a lot of experience, you may not have encountered this. I'll admit that Blackbird's design is pretty safe, but that's the only one I've seen to that standard and I think he will confirm that he is aware of the problem.

As for goshawks getting bumble foot from a wooden perch, that is interesting as I've had my tiercel gos on the trolley system for four years now, 24/7, and all his perches are natural hazel and only the bow has been changed -- once. No sign of bumble foot yet!!

I find it odd that you predict problems with the natural wooden perch, without producing a single case to support your hypothesis, but dismiss the dangers of the steel perch out of hand even though there are numerous cases of HHs with broken legs on record.

[Sean]

Derry with the size of the bow, and teh ring running so smoothly
will the bird not build up a bit to much speed, of on the ground on one side, and bates to the far size, seen this on your site
http://www.adviegundogs.co.uk/moultgos1.jpg

[Gaz]

[dismiss the dangers of the steel perch out of hand even though there are numerous cases of HHs with broken legs on record.]QUOTE:

Might be right to point out to beginners reading this, that too long a leash is the cause for the broken legs/pulled thighs and would happen if you had a wooden,metal,plastic or straw bow :roll: ....and Derry mate,before you broadside me:D ......i would be happy to take your Gos off your hands as he could probaly do with a bit of flying after being on that perch system 24/7:twisted: :supz:


p.s.
theres probaly only 1 or 2 of you using wood bows,and hundreds if not more using others...the averages of "injury" bound to stack up.....

[Yarak1]

[dismiss the dangers of the steel perch out of hand even though there are numerous cases of HHs with broken legs on record.]QUOTE:

Might be right to point out to beginners reading this, that too long a leash is the cause for the broken legs/pulled thighs and would happen if you had a wooden,metal,plastic or straw bow :roll: ....and Derry mate,before you broadside me:D ......i would be happy to take your Gos off your hands as he could probaly do with a bit of flying after being on that perch system 24/7:twisted: :supz:


p.s.
theres probaly only 1 or 2 of you using wood bows,and hundreds if not more using others...the averages of "injury" bound to stack up.....

Well put Gaz!!! totally agree with you..........

[Sprout]

Agreed with you there Jimmy, also it can't do the birds feet much good either when the top of the bow loses the bark and goes shiny...............Means the bird is always gripping to hold on, then no air travels under the foot....small cut on underside of foot would then have a great chance of becoming bumblefoot!!


Personally I'm not over keen on these perches for the reasons stated by others ie IF the wood snaps/breaks then the bird is flying loose with a ring/leash etc so I prefer more modern/reliable materials for my bows - but each to their own.
Related to the above, you need a better understanding of what causes Bumblefoot. I would not recommend the wooden perch for falcons or eagles due to the risk of bumblefoot, however, broadwings and shortwings are not at such risk. Firstly, bublefoot is not primarily caused by cuts and air circulation has nothing to do with it. Bumblefoot is a chronic condition and poor perching is one major cause. Effectively a condition similar to bed sores develops, poor perching results in pressure sores, the papules on the bottom of the feet flatten, the skin thins and becomes inflammed. Eventually the normal skin bacteria invade through the damaged skin and cause infection. The amount of air has NOTHING to do with it.
Secondly, (and I will try to find the paper that proves it) glass and rubber cutting boards hold far more bacteria than wooden cutting boards - so the same should hold true for wooden and rubber perches (don;t ask me why - I would have thought it the other way round).

[Tim Laycock]

THREAD EDITED

Off topic, personal and pointless tit for tat postings removed.

Keep it real chaps, this was supposed to be an informative thread about bow perches not a "who knows what thread"

This is a forum not a competition :!:

[Tim Laycock]

Thtead re-opened amid hopes of inteligent debate :yawinkle:

[Shannor]

Would a traditional bow perch not be a good thing to alternate to once in a while (fresh one every time) so that the bird isn't sitting on the same textured perch all the time? Surely as a once in a while thing, a traditional bow perch with a supervised bird is a good thing? Normally in the wild, they'd perch on a wide variety of perching surfaces, so wouldn't alternating the perch be healthiest for their feet? (I'm a beginner, so if I'm talking complete crud, just tell me so)

[Tim Laycock]

Would also be perfect for tethering in a secure, mesh fronted weathering

[Gaz]

Shannor..................:supz: :supz: :supz: :supz:

[GoodFooter]

If the welfare of the bird is the main concern of the falconer ( or bird keeper) more broken legs & pulled muscles are caused by the tethering method and if more falconers moved over to loop leashes ( which have been about for some time now) I'm quite sure there would be many more happy birds out there! yet the vast majority of bows still seem to be offered with ' traditional' rings..... if for the welfare of the bird...we should move with the times this would be the first thing the responsible falconer adopts!!! Traditiion may be great but move with the times and there are plenty of responsible suppliers offering great BOWS ( I prefer the eliptical type as apposed to the semi circle so many offer)
IN MY OPINION

[GregMik]

Moved the leash and swivel posts to its own thread

[Mary Quite Contrary]

[dismiss the dangers of the steel perch out of hand even though there are numerous cases of HHs with broken legs on record.]QUOTE:

Might be right to point out to beginners reading this, that too long a leash is the cause for the broken legs/pulled thighs and would happen if you had a wooden,metal,plastic or straw bow :roll: ....and Derry mate,before you broadside me:D ......i would be happy to take your Gos off your hands as he could probaly do with a bit of flying after being on that perch system 24/7:twisted: :supz:


p.s.
theres probaly only 1 or 2 of you using wood bows,and hundreds if not more using others...the averages of "injury" bound to stack up.....





It is beautiful Gaz.