Box dims for female gos

[Liam Hay]

Hi all any one got a good design or dimensions for a box for a female Gos, need a new one

Liam

[OutFlying]

20" wide, 25" tall, 24" deep.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/outflying/IMG_0401.jpg


http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/outflying/boxrearview.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/outflying/boxbaffle.jpg


Note vent holes at rear and internal baffle to prevent light ingress, also rebate the door.

Jim.

[Liam Hay]

cheers jim m8:supz:

[Liam Hay]

jim where do u then have the perch internally ie what measurements, a friend is cutting it all foir me

[OutFlying]

Liam,
The perch is position using a bit of trial and error, the gos tail with sheath fitted just clears the bottom - it's positioned about 10 " in.

Jim.

[tawoodee]

When you have built the box (don't put vent holes in top unless covered to stop hawk seeing out) try the following. Measure the internal dimension of the box floor. Cut another 'floor pan' from a suitable material ie heavy duty plastic, aluminium sheet (something rigid in other words). Work out the top of head and tail clearance of your bird (they all differ) and construct a 'solid' perch like an old fashioned screen perch which is fixed to the 'inner floor' of your box. You fix the the upright perch across the separate floor at 'x' distance form the back of the box to allow for tail clearance. Depending on the nature of your hawk you can leave the top of the perch in plain wood (slightly curved for comfort) or cover it in carpet, leather etc. Beware, your hawk might pull at or pluck your carefully attached covering! This is irritating as you have basically installed it for your birds comfort whilst travelling. Do hawks appreciate this? Probably not as trees aren't carpet covered are they. Anyway I have had great success with this type of 'perch' for several reasons, the main being safety. Because the perch is solid, an unsettled bird can 'go under' a traditional perch attached to the inside walls of a box. Frustrating, potentially hazardous and to be avoided if possible. Without being stupid, my hawks are encouraged to hop onto the perch and then turn round and stay like that until I open the box and take them out. By using a suitable material on the back of the box (ie newspaper) and some on the floor, mutes are caught and easily removed, keeping the box clean. If you wan't to clean it further the removable perch I have described (yes it comes out completely as it isn't fixed inside, hence the rigid base) can be taken out and it can all be disinfected, should you want to. You can also construct different height perches to accomodate hawks of slightly differing sizes. A job for the summer when your not hawking much.
The last good reason for using this type of perch is again one that doesn't occur all of the time, but when it does is a pain. Your hawk is sick or injured, and needs to be kept in a warm, dark, quiet place. She may not be happy or well enough to perch, so why not use her hawk box! It's an environment she is happy with and used to. Take out the removable perch, leaving a dark empty box, and hey presto! you have got yourself an easy to clean hospital quarters for the duration of her illness. Just remember to put a suitable floor covering inside for her to lie on.

Hope the advice has been useful.

Ta Ta.