How to make a Tail mount(my way)

[GregMik]

Tim has inspired me.....Here is my tail mount system. First thing you want to do is go out and shoot off a couple .22 shells at about midnight. I just did it and nobody cared.....or called the police on me.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount15.jpg

[GregMik]

Then you need to cut the tube off at the proper length for the tail mount you have. I have a Marshall Micro shown. The length should be less that the curves on the springs on the transmitter.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount20.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount21.jpg

[GregMik]

Once you have that cut to length, you need to take a crimp on electrical connector, cut the plastic part off and then open up the crimp.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount22.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount23.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount24.jpg

[GregMik]

opps, forgot, You should cut a notch in the top of the shell for the springs to sit in.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount27.jpg

[GregMik]

Next you will need to mount the tube to the electrical connector. I like to use a paper clip for the wire then I solder them together.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount29.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount31.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount32.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount33.jpg

[GregMik]

Now you want to heat and Solder.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount34.jpg

[GregMik]

A couple finished transmitter mounts and Bell mounts. The ones you see in a couple pics is a Marshal mount with the pliers that go with them.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount35.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount39.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount41.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount42.jpg

[GregMik]

Here is what they look like on the feathers....Used a couple of feathers I had. You want to use 5 minute epoxy to put them on, along with the crimps.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount44.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount46.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount48.jpg

[GregMik]

Here is a couple of pics of them on my Passage Gos.

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount12.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount13.jpg

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/gregmik/IFF/Tailmount14.jpg

[GregMik]

I like this better than the plenum I have seen as the bell is slanted back and will be less likely to catch on the brush when the bird is going through. I also like to use the Pakistani bells as the don't loose their tone like an acorn bell does when you heat them up. Plus they are cheap.



Greg

[Intek Hosting]

I also like to use the Pakistani bells as the don't loose their tone like an acorn bell does when you heat them up. Plus they are cheap.

Its a clever man who manages to answer my questions before I can ask them.
I'm using a bell made from Berilium (I think, its a Peels bell!!)
Anyway I was wondering if the heating would normalise a bell of this material and messup its Tone.

If so could you correct the Tone by re-tempering it somehow (heating and fast cooling?
Anyone know how the bell makers normalise the metal in their bells to produce the correct tone after soldering?

[Venividevenatio]

Re your thread on making mounts.... what sort of solder are you using? Is pre fluxed electrical solder man enough, or are you using something like 'silver solder'???

Also I agree with the dirrect tail mounting, because if you do get a gear catch up on bushes, you only loose one feather at a time! The plectrum still seems popular though, I suppose it is is a sound board for the bell, and prevents the bell falling through the tail ??? But I find proper use of cable tie and its 'lock' hold the bell in the position you describe, whilst allowing the bell some movement.

Tried the electrical connecters myself a couple of years ago, may have not got it right, as they did not bind to the feather shaft very well. So, went back to the Martin Jones mounts. I will try the 22 case in a similar manner to Martin Jones mounts, by soldering 2 together, and then cutting a slit to go over and close onto shaft.

Thanks for a great article. Makes a pleasant change to hear about falconry, instead of ********!! Regards

[GregMik]

Its a clever man who manages to answer my questions before I can ask them.
I'm using a bell made from Berilium (I think, its a Peels bell!!)
Anyway I was wondering if the heating would normalise a bell of this material and messup its Tone.

If so could you correct the Tone by re-tempering it somehow (heating and fast cooling?
Anyone know how the bell makers normalise the metal in their bells to produce the correct tone after soldering?

I don't make my own bells....yet. So I really haven't looked into why the pakistani bells don't loose thier tone like an acorn type does.

I will have to differ to a bell maker.

Greg

[GregMik]

Re your thread on making mounts.... what sort of solder are you using? Is pre fluxed electrical solder man enough, or are you using something like 'silver solder'???

Also I agree with the dirrect tail mounting, because if you do get a gear catch up on bushes, you only loose one feather at a time! The plectrum still seems popular though, I suppose it is is a sound board for the bell, and prevents the bell falling through the tail ??? But I find proper use of cable tie and its 'lock' hold the bell in the position you describe, whilst allowing the bell some movement.

Tried the electrical connecters myself a couple of years ago, may have not got it right, as they did not bind to the feather shaft very well. So, went back to the Martin Jones mounts. I will try the 22 case in a similar manner to Martin Jones mounts, by soldering 2 together, and then cutting a slit to go over and close onto shaft.

Thanks for a great article. Makes a pleasant change to hear about falconry, instead of ********!! Regards

I am using a regular soldier for copper and brass. The electrical connectors are nickle coated brass. So if you scuff it up the soldier will adhere just fine. You should use new soldier and flux also.

I also use 5 minute epoxy to mount the bell and transmitter mount to the feathers. This will stop the crimp from slipping.

I have not had any probs with the tail feather being pulled out as the bell is angled back and the brush slides over the bell instead of hooking it.

Greg

[Tim Laycock]

Exelent Greg :supz:

[Midge]

thanks for that Greg , answer me this though ....why did you need to cut the rim off the shell when you need to cut it shorter than the clip anyhow ?

[Sandeep]

Greg

Your pictures and the explanation in detail was fabulous.... Thanks on behalf of everyone on this forum...

Truly Appreciated...

:supz: :supz: :supz: :supz:

[Harrisii]

great stuff greg.
good detailed pics and more food for thought. excellent.

[Kanati]

i have a question..and i dont want it to sound like im putting down your good work, I am suitably impressied with the skill your method requires and it looks great:supz: ...

...but... isnt that a long complicated and time consuming solution to a very simple problem:?: I make my own tail mounts (well..i dont actually..i get my old man to do it) but anyway.. its one peice of the metal of your chouce..i use brass or copper. cut into rectangles approx, 3cm by 1cm ish (cut them to fit your hawk) and its hammered into shape - making the loop for the bell or telem, and two legs to slot down either side of the feather. you can weld the bell on if you like, or just cable tie it to the loop after etc..its just a case of glueing the mount to the feather with some apoxy or glue of your choice. from making the mount to haveing a hawk wearing it with a bell on, took about 15 mins, and 10 mins was waiting for the layers of contact clue to partially dry.:roll:

[Harrisii]

i have a question..and i dont want it to sound like im putting down your good work, I am suitably impressied with the skill your method requires and it looks great:supz: ...

...but... isnt that a long complicated and time consuming solution to a very simple problem:?: I make my own tail mounts (well..i dont actually..i get my old man to do it) but anyway.. its one peice of the metal of your chouce..i use brass or copper. cut into rectangles approx, 3cm by 1cm ish (cut them to fit your hawk) and its hammered into shape - making the loop for the bell or telem, and two legs to slot down either side of the feather. you can weld the bell on if you like, or just cable tie it to the loop after etc..its just a case of glueing the mount to the feather with some apoxy or glue of your choice. from making the mount to haveing a hawk wearing it with a bell on, took about 15 mins, and 10 mins was waiting for the layers of contact clue to partially dry.:roll:


any pics kanati??
these would be most helpful to see than visualise.
another great thread with good input. more methods the better so we all have choice.

[Kanati]

any pics kanati??
these would be most helpful to see than visualise.
another great thread with good input. more methods the better so we all have choice.


i will see what i can do....watch this space:cool:

[Tasha55403]

i have a question..and i dont want it to sound like im putting down your good work, I am suitably impressied with the skill your method requires and it looks great:supz: ...

...but... isnt that a long complicated and time consuming solution to a very simple problem:?: I make my own tail mounts (well..i dont actually..i get my old man to do it) but anyway.. its one peice of the metal of your chouce..i use brass or copper. cut into rectangles approx, 3cm by 1cm ish (cut them to fit your hawk) and its hammered into shape - making the loop for the bell or telem, and two legs to slot down either side of the feather. you can weld the bell on if you like, or just cable tie it to the loop after etc..its just a case of glueing the mount to the feather with some apoxy or glue of your choice. from making the mount to haveing a hawk wearing it with a bell on, took about 15 mins, and 10 mins was waiting for the layers of contact clue to partially dry.:roll:

Actually, he can whip one of these out pretty quick...within 10-15min, I would say from what I've seen. It really isn't that complicated.

[Kanati]

i not knocking his work or anything...and as i said im sure they are good tail mounts. Ok its not overly complicated, but its 100 times more complicated then the ones i make. I know that doesnt nesseserily make them any better or worse.

here it is...as you can see its very simple...i havent got a pic of it on the hawk but you can see how it will fit cant you!?? it doesnt fall off..infact i put one on a test feather and i couldnt get it off! I attached the bell with a cable tie, and it sits above the feathers and rings well. the birds picked at tem for a day or so, but gave up and never managed to remove them.
so what do ya think?

[Tasha55403]

i not knocking his work or anything...and as i said im sure they are good tail mounts. Ok its not overly complicated, but its 100 times more complicated then the ones i make. I know that doesnt nesseserily make them any better or worse.

here it is...as you can see its very simple...i havent got a pic of it on the hawk but you can see how it will fit cant you!?? it doesnt fall off..infact i put one on a test feather and i couldnt get it off! I attached the bell with a cable tie, and it sits above the feathers and rings well. the birds picked at tem for a day or so, but gave up and never managed to remove them.
so what do ya think?

I realize that, just pointing out it's not really that complicated:-) Yours looks very nice. I'm not very "handy" so take this for what it's worth, but without direct experience of the material used, I would be worried that anything soft enough for me to mold into shape would stay that shape and not "come loose" after awhile of use on the bird. But then again, as Greg will tell you, I'm a worry-wart:-P Drives him bananas sometimes:lol:

[Kanati]

I realize that, just pointing out it's not really that complicated:-) Yours looks very nice. I'm not very "handy" so take this for what it's worth, but without direct experience of the material used, I would be worried that anything soft enough for me to mold into shape would stay that shape and not "come loose" after awhile of use on the bird. But then again, as Greg will tell you, I'm a worry-wart:-P Drives him bananas sometimes:lol:


once its got the glue on, its solid...no need to worry. :wink:

[Paddy1]

which is best tail bell or leg bell or both cheers

[Gosman_2]

Iff u dont have a .22 u can buy lengths of copper pipe of lots of diferent diametre from a good model shop

[TCake18]

good idea greg very simple and effective:supz: :supz: :supz:

[Nemesis]

which is best tail bell or leg bell or both cheers
hi paddy I use both because if my fhh is standing still she still flicks her tail to me it is better safe than sorry the more you can hear the better good flying /dave

[Paddy1]

hi paddy I use both because if my fhh is standing still she still flicks her tail to me it is better safe than sorry the more you can hear the better good flying /dave


thanks nemeis logical i suppose lol

[Nemesis]

Hi greg nice post for thouse of us that carnt get hold of 22 cases you might be able to use copper brake pipe again nice post /dave

[Hacker]

If people want some empty .22 cases then just send me an s.a.e and i will send you some.
Address on website.

[Kanati]

which is best tail bell or leg bell or both cheers

i would opt for the tail bell over the leg bell...especially if you are poor! the leg bells take more punishment then the tail bells and therfor stop ringing sooner...but you have to find the tail bell when the hawk molts, which is fine if you dont fly through the molt

[Harris]

I like the idea of a crimp on electrical conector, just using that would make a good tail mount for just a bell alone! Nice one Greg.

[Kevin Massey]

split the thread


http://www.falconryforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=317503#post317503

[Stephen]

nice one greg i will try and make some up for this season

[GregMik]

Well....Just shows you....you shouldn't do stuff when you are half in the bag.

Midge, Yes you can cut out the step of cutting off the closed end.

Then did anyone notice that I put the .22 tube on the electrical connector backwards? The notches should go to the other end of the finished product.

I am a Mod....I am spose to be perfect......Sorry.....

Greg

[Pogger]

Excellent thread Greg, really enjoyed it. Many thanks.

[Fawkes]

Great thread Greg - now I think I should be able to make one more bit of my own equipment!

This thread should be back at the top and noticed.. I missed it the first time round :oops:

[Pendleside]

good thread greg .
the pictures make it so much easier to follow .