Neatsfoot

[StormRider]

Ive just managed to come across a tin of Neatsfoot on a job I was working on this week. Has anyone used this on the leather gear for their birds, i.e. jesses, anklets, gloves, etc?
I havent used it before but have heard it mentioned.

STU

[Berkut]

Stu,
I have used it and it is very good,particularly for jesses.

[StormRider]

Thanks Neil. Thats all I need to know.

STU

[Goldie]

Sorry to disagree, but apparently it is not good for jesses etc.
I can't remember why, but this question came up some time ago and Julian (Falconers Emporium) who is a master saddler gave a detailed reason as to why not. Worth checking with him first.

[Nige]

I use it all the time but it but was told by a saddler that it should not be put onto virgin leather, Dont know why but I was told to grease the leather first and then paint a drop on anklets , jesses ect as and when needed. I put a drop on with a kids paint brush weekly and the leather stays supple for ages.

[JedT]

I used it for years,then my sister warned me (shes into horses)it rots leather after a while,so i moved on to Ko-cho-line and i've had no problems with the Ko---------Jed.

[Gyr]

Ive just managed to come across a tin of Neatsfoot on a job I was working on this week. Has anyone used this on the leather gear for their birds, i.e. jesses, anklets, gloves, etc?
I havent used it before but have heard it mentioned.

STU
Hi, I have been using neatsfoot for some years, and find it very good . However it does tend to dry out after some time. I find if i apply Ko . Cho . Line leather grease this will then keep them soft and supple. This grease can be purchased from any saddlery or country wide store.

[Haz]

traditional jess grease is by far the most suitable and safe thing to use on any falconry gear,
i make my own and supply at cost with no profit making at all,
if anyone want to try it out,
p.m. me for the details,

it is made to my own recipe and is a tried and proven success
and contains a wickedly high beeswax content,
a little goes a long way,;)

to quote one owner of a falconry centre i supplied recently with 5litres for his own personal use
" in 30yrs of falconry i have never used anything better"

his words not mine

[Lyn Birds]

i used neatsfoot for years ended up having 3 hh electrocuted was told because it was liquid form it conducted the elc. dont know whether it s true but ive seen my m8 harris landing on them many tmes with no prob but as soon as mine landed on the h poles bang bird gone i only use wax (solid) cheers lyn

[Venividevenatio]

I used it for years,then my sister warned me (shes into horses)it rots leather after a while,so i moved on to Ko-cho-line and i've had no problems with the Ko---------Jed.

Neatsfoot does not rot leather. It will however, remove the beeswax that is on the thread, causing the stiching to rot.
I have 2 saddles that are both over 25 yrs old, both have had Neatsfoot and Ko-Ch-Line used on them excliusivly all their lives. They are not rotten!
The problems with Neatsfoot are excess application, and applying when the leather and Neatsfoot are cold. It then sits on the top and will not soak in.
Some people (me included) can be mildly allergic to Neatsfoot, resulting in an excema type codition on soft skin. So care should be taken.
Only leathers tanned for the saddley trade (or similar) will accept leather presevatives from the grain (shiny) side. This is because other leathers are 'case finished' with a sealer that makes them semi waterproof, so preservatives can only enter the leather from the flesh side, or through cracks in the grain side.

Lynbirds reference to electrocution, is interesting. Neatsfoot has mineral salts in its make up, but then so do the products that are used to tan the leather in the first place. I suspect that if the jesses were wet from rain, they would be just as good a conductor of electricity?
I only use leather preservatives on mews jesses, my flying jesses are so thin and narrow, they are past their usefulness by the time they may need treating!

I do not know what Falconers Emporium objected to with the use of Neatsfoot, but I would be interested to know his considered and respected opinion.

( PS. When I retired, the Gov paid for me to re-train.... I chose saddlery! Hence, other leather related threads/ posts from me.)

[Falconry Equipment International]

somewhere in the archives is my lengthy post on this ( sorry for V short answer , just about to head out with flacons to hunt) basicly I do not have a prob perse with neats foot compound I doubt if you can get neats foot oil ~ production of neats foot oil ceased in 1929) basicly if applying to new jess leather esp roo it will tend to make it go spongy and therefore lose strength. By using Kocholine/ other grease the leather seems to 'strengthen , the epidermae effectivel being kept tightly together . of coure you can use neats foot compound but in moderation. HTH, will respond in more detail later if reqd

[StormRider]

Wow. Didnt expect all those responses.
I am always one who aires on the side of experience and it seems that this gear has been used well within falconry for a long time. I usually use a formula that afriend makes for me and this works really well. It was just that this tin of neatsfoot is for nowt and quite a large tin as well. I will give it a go and see what happens with it.
However, I would appreciate further discussions by people who have experience with its use.
I do like the sound of these saddlery courses mind and have always wanted to do a bit work with leather, etc. Apart from hoods and the usual bird gear, I would like to learn more for the benefit of creating a few arty pieces.
Where are these courses offered?

STU

[StormRider]

The stuff I have here is Neatsfoot Compound "Vanner and Prest TM" by Carr and Day and Martin.
Says on Tin:

"A finely blended preservative containing pure Neatsfoot oil, developed especially for restoring the natural properties of worn or weathered leather saddlery and harnesses. Regular application prevents leather becoming dry and brittle. Does not rot stitching. Shake well. Using a cloth or brush, apply a thin layer to the underside of the leather and allow to penetrate for several hours. Re-apply if leather still appears stiff, taking care not to over apply. Remove any excess oil before use. Not suitable for aniline or untreated leather, suede or nubuck. Test on a hidden area before use."

Maybe this could be a new and improved recipe?

From what I can see here I would say that it is perfect for the job. What do you reckon?

STU

[MattSpar]

I soak all new jesses, anklets, and so on in neatsfoot for some time, then use jess grease. I've done this for years. If your leather is good, it produces beautifully soft equipment.

When swapping over jesses, I also occasionally give them another soak.

Just make sure, when removing equipment from the oil, that you squeeze every last drop you can from it. I do this, then use tissues from a kitchen roll.