Screamin Harris

[Adam Barrett]

Has any one got any tips during the training of harris hawks to help prevent screaming.
thanks

[Johnny]

Hello m8 im only a novice but i think when your bird sceams its due to bringing his weight down to slowly ?when your training them .
1 other thing that can make birds scream is having them as food imprints
so when ever they see you they just scream ,
I could be wrong on this subject as im only learning myself its just bits ive read .
Johnny

[Adam Barrett]

thanks jhonny,
iv heard all sorts of things about them associating you with food.
how do you stop this?
what about when you fly them to the glove is that not making them associate you with food?
thanks

[Hawkmaster]

Harris Hawks are gregarious family birds and mature slowly so they need to be mentally ready for training. If you drop their weight TOO QUICKLY, they will start to scream or if they are not old enough, after 19 weeks should be OK. Many do it before and are fine.

Do you have a screamer?

[Johnny]

hth im learning m8 .ivve just bought a webley vulcan for me hunting i got it for £70 i need some scopes for it ,when i was cocking it i caught me finger in it ,black and blue ,lol
All the best
Johnny

[Shaun Byrne]

Johnny,
Dont forget to take the pellet out before feeding shot quarry to your birds!
Sorry if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, if I am just post F£$k off, LOL

[Johnny]

no m8 what ever comments they are if it can help me or someone else its all appreciated .
All the best
johnny

[Shaun Byrne]

Baywing,
in my experiance the most common cause of screaming has been beginners spending too much time with their bird at too young an age. A Harris will soon switch its imprinting from its parents to its new owner, and if you're also feeding it on the fist all the time you've got double trouble. The Female Harris I'm hunting with at the moment has not been fed off the fist since being manned 4 years ago. I bring her in with the swing lure, with just a chick leg on it and she just hops onto my glove when she finishes. Shes absolutely silent. I would let a fresh Harris settle for at least a fortnight, bring her weight down over another fortnight and as soon as she can be trusted get her out hunting asap. The trick is to get her entered as soon as possible so you and her form a team rather than her thinking you're her parent. Hope this helps. Put in the hard work now and it will prevent a lot of hassle later on.

[Kornie]

Got my bird at twelve weeks spent loads of time with it feed it off the fist. No problems. However I think all her brotheres and sisters did. I think it may be down to getting your bird at a young age.

[Shaun Byrne]

Sounds like you were lucky M8.
How old is your bird now?
I used to do the same, feeding off the fist etc. I spoke quite a bit to Toby Bradshaw and the Coulsons in the states, they never feed off the fist. I trained my bird to use the fist to look for food, I hid bits all over the garden and she would look to find them from the fist. It may be a coincidence but shes the quietest, best hunting bird i've ever had and one of the best I've ever seen.

[Hawkmaster]

A friend, Dave Sherman has just trained and is now flying a bird he got at 12 weeks and so far it is perfect.

The problem comes in where too long a time is taken or the weight is cut to severely.

[Adam Barrett]

im picking mine up in two weeks, itwill bethirteen weeks old.do you think i should start the manning nd training streight away on wait a few weeks
thanks

[Hawkmaster]

MANNING STRAIGHT AWAY AND DO NOT GO OUT THE HOUSE BUT MAN LOADS. ONCE EATEN OFF THE FIST THEN GO ON WALKS, Damn! Sorry about that was not looking?

[Adam Barrett]

what would you say about feeding on the fist as part of the manning- i think im going to se the method talked about on toby bradshaw website,
any coments on it?
thanks

[Hawkmaster]

No idea, send us a link?

Manning is something you always do. Out of the 8 or 9 steps I teach. this is the first and it never ends.

[Adam Barrett]

http://home.comcast.net/~baywingdb/traintips.htm
what steps do you teach?

[Hawkmaster]

1. Manning
2. Step Up To Fist
3. Jump To Fist
4. Fly To Fist In Doors
5. Fly On Creance Line Outdoors
6. Flying Free
7. Fitness
8. Hunting

[Adam Barrett]

ok thanks-so what do you think of the bradshaws training method

[Hawkmaster]

What I read seemed Ok but got bored to be honest, but that may just be that we all have our own ways?

[Adam Barrett]

yea it does drag on-i thought some of the stuff made alot of sense i think im going to use it but add in a few of the things martin hollinesed talked about in the complete rabbit and hare hawk guide

[Hawkmaster]

I feel there is no need to throw food on the floor, they will do that anyway, just reinforce glove work.

USE the glove and lure to retrieve.

[Shaun Byrne]

http://home.comcast.net/~baywingdb/
This is the link to Toby Bradshaws site, take a look.

[Shaun Byrne]

Sorry, didnt see page 2, you lads are way ahead

[Adam Barrett]

have you used the same training system that toby bradshaw talks about

[Hawkmaster]

Probably not the same as his, we all tend to develop our own way. As long as it is safe and you can justify your action I recon it is OK?

[Shaun Byrne]

Yes I used the main idea ie not feeding off the fist and entering as soon as possible. With this bird I did most of my manning in the field. As soon as I knew I could trust her to return to the lure I had her out hunting. She entered on her first outing, although it was an easy rabbit only 20yds from the truck. Some might say its a coinsidence or luck but whatever it is, I've got the best hunting bird I've ever had (and I've had a few). Its well worth trying, maybe adapted to suit yourself.

[Hawkmaster]

Sounds just like the method I use to train imprints?

[Jiff]

toby bradshaws method was one of the first i came accross and i thaught it was great untill you throw other aspects into the equasion like the hood,
now more educated myself,i've devised my own schedule to include the hood,as described by M.H.although i will be aiming at entering as early as poss,which is going along with T.B i do agree that the bird learns alot more from hunting than it ever would from continued manning,as H.M says it's finding the right ballance to suite you'r own situation and work schedule. but i'm sure anyone following either martin or toby wont go far wrong,one thing to bare in mind is that toby gets the majority of his birds from the coulsons who have a reputation for breeding very tame birds which does away with alot of the initial approach,he even talks of a bird that jumped to the fist on the first day it was caught up(some bird that)

[Shaun Byrne]

Last year I bred one clutch in an open aviary as an experiment but never let any of the birds see me with food, I even went into the aviary to clean up once they were out of the nest. All three birds would jump to the fist the day after fitting with furniture and one of them was flying free for itew owner in 7 days. As far as I know all 3 are silent and hunting well.
I'm not too sure weather the coulsons birds are naturally tame as everyone claims or they're just well adapted to seeing people as mine were. Anyone got any thaughts?

[Hawkmaster]

I don't know JACK about breeding BUT it sounds like all the manning has already been done, and they learn from their parents too and if they are OK they so are the young?

[Jiff]

coulsons breed in open chambers of chainlink fence and by all accounts are subjected to everything from the safety of the chaimber,lawn mowers dogs people ect,so they show little fear when caught up.from what iv'e learnt and seen over the last twelve months or so,it's still to catch on here,however the breeder i'm buying from breeds in seclusion chambers,one of the lads in our club baught a male from him and entered it succesfully ten days after picking it up it's also totaly silent in all situations,i've been to see my youngster and although bred and reared in seclusion showed no skitiness to my approach they did show great curriosity though.another thing is the weather my breeder lives in a fairly remote part of the north east and i dare say faces some fairly extreme weather winter and summer so may be it's not practical to have full open breeding chambers.

[Hawkmaster]

Dave Sherman has just trained up a female HH and she is the tamest bird I have ever seen. Her breeder has Canadian stock and does everything to contridict the Coulsons?

So we are still no wise? You pays your money and gets your lot, me thinks?

[Shaun Byrne]

I think if you get a bird you're happy with, it will do all you require and hunting is a pleasure not a chore, who gives a **** what methods we use to train them lol.

[Hawkmaster]

Yip as long as it is SAFE.

[Jiff]

bang on man,if it takes me 6 weeks to tame my bird another 6 to man it,
as long as it nails quary as an end result i don't care,i know it won't take that long, but you get my drift(and if it takes a dislike to the wifes yorky.....SO WHAT!)

[Shaun Byrne]

Spot on mate, bit risky with the yorky lol, just got the hang of my digi cam so going to try and upload some pics.

[North East Harris Hawker]

bang on man,if it takes me 6 weeks to tame my bird another 6 to man it,
as long as it nails quary as an end result i don't care,i know it won't take that long, but you get my drift(and if it takes a dislike to the wifes yorky.....SO WHAT!)
i recon its only a matter of time between talons and dog coming together!

[Shaun Byrne]

Yeh, then dog coming apart lol!

[North East Harris Hawker]

i'd get the dog some kind of padded jacket for chritmas to "help keep it warm" if you know what i mean, a nice kevlar one! :lol:

[Shaun Byrne]

Never mind the jacket, I'd have a standby yorkie stashed in the shed just in case. It would be terrible to nail the missus's beloved pet, it would put your bird way over weight lol.

[North East Harris Hawker]

ha ha! just get the dog stuffed and say "stay" every so often, your mrs will think youve trained it really well! pmsl :lol:

[Hawkmaster]

OH NO! I can see it now, in years to come every falconer will need a stuffed DOG and his falconry list of gear? lol

[Shaun Byrne]

yeah, dummy bunny for the bird, dummy dog for the other bird, pmsl!

[Shaun Byrne]

Bye the way, Lisa, if you read this I'm only having a laugh with the lads, please dont make me stay in!!! lol.

[Sparrow Hawker]

Hi Baywinghawker,

I'm no expert but these are the principles I like to follow:


Key steps:

2 week settling in period - Weathered and weighed daily /no training or manning

Always use a food chute

Never train in or near living quarters

Bring the weight down as quickly as possible when manning and when you achieve a response push the weight up.

Vary training etc. fist flights and lure flights

Aim to get the bird entered as quickly as possible but do not rush, impossible to put a time limit on things go at a pace that you and the bird are happy with

Ideally you want the bird to become independent and catching its own food you want to be seen as a helper and not the sole food provider, get the bird hunting as quickly as possible and hopefully you will end up with a quiet bird

I wish you all the best,

Regards,

HH[/b]

[North East Harris Hawker]

great tips that make total sense 8)

[Hawkmaster]

I personally get down to training straight away, anywhere and place any time, the rest, very much the same.

[North East Harris Hawker]

if there is any food bond there, the sooner you get the bird channeling its efforts into catching its own food the sooner itll quieten down.

[Sparrow Hawker]

My thought's exactly, the bird needs to become independant and catching it's own food.

Regards,

HH

[North East Harris Hawker]

this problem with harrises screaming also fits a pattern of newbies to the sport who seem to take alittle longer to get the bird going, it needs to be independantly hunting as soon as possible, not looking for a replacement for mummy!

[Sparrow Hawker]

In my opinion you can certainly over-man a Harris.

Regards,

HH

[North East Harris Hawker]

i disagree with that, i think that could be true though if it involved a lot of glove feeding,i could have moulted my bird out on the glove......
well almost :?

[Sparrow Hawker]

I'm sorry that's what I meant - direct feeding,

Well picked up North East.

Regards,

HH

[North East Harris Hawker]

heheh it might be the middle of the night but im not sleeping yet!

[Sparrow Hawker]

Gee is that the time, I'm nearly falling asleep here. :?

Regards,

HH

[North East Harris Hawker]

tis catching up with me too, ill be back the morro tho to see if anyone else has any advice on this subject 8)

[Sean]

Ive seen on a few places now that its best not give food on teh fist at the start of training,leave on perch or something instead. put how can you get the hawk to come on teh creance ect without food? also can you overman a hawk at the start, i mean just having it on your glove stroking it with a feather but having no food? will overmanning cause screaming too?

[Shaun Byrne]

I believe a hawk can be over exposed to human contact whilst still young. I wouldn't say "manning" as this includes introducing your hawk to as many things as possible, not just YOU.

The important thing for me is to give the least amount of handling required, to allow you to get your hawk entered and killing as soon as possible.

They're not pets so dont treat them like one.

[Sparrow Hawker]

H4wka


I believe a hawk can be over exposed to human contact whilst still young. I wouldn't say "manning" as this includes introducing your hawk to as many things as possible, not just YOU.

The important thing for me is to give the least amount of handling required, to allow you to get your hawk entered and killing as soon as possible.

They're not pets so dont treat them like one.


Well put H4wka 8)

Regards,

HH

[Sean]

so only really totally man after the hawk has made a kill or 2?

[Shaun Byrne]

Your Hawk will learn on its own, at its own pace as it is taken into the field. The best Manning a bird can get is whilst on the kill. It is at this point they are most vulnerable and hyped up. If you make in well and gain your birds trust at a kill, it will trust you anywhere.

[Varmint]

so only really totally man after the hawk has made a kill or 2?

The hood is of great use, so use it to help not hinder!

If your Hawk has made a Kill or two it may not need any more manning than just the daily routine and interraction of flying and hunting in your company.

The main point is the over familiarity, breeds contempt and may prompt noise in a steady bird.

[Kevin Massey]

If you make in well and gain your birds trust at a kill, it will trust you anywhere.

I agree:supz:

[Johnny Abbott]

1. Manning
2. Step Up To Fist
3. Jump To Fist
4. Fly To Fist In Doors
5. Fly On Creance Line Outdoors
6. Flying Free
7. Fitness
8. Huntingagree with most of this but i do not see why you need to fly any hh in door first

[Hardcore Hawker]

Johnny its so you can watch the world cup games whilst training your bird this will not apply next year.

[BlackHawke]

agree with most of this but i do not see why you need to fly any hh in door first

in my opinion its coz theres less stimulus to take its attention or scare it and you can control the environment indoors. thats harder to do outdoors. i only do it for a day or 2, then i move into the garden then outdoors

when i first bring me bird home i get all the stress over n done with as soon as i bring the bird home. other animals, noise, and kids!!!. instead of introducing it bit by bit and prolonging the stress.

gonna do the same with me little male when i bring him home.

i have fed all my harris's primarily on the fist and intensly manned. my own personal rule is dont get into any type of routine. dont feed your bird same time everyday or the same place. feed them on the bow in the aviary on your fist etc. as soon as your bird gets a whiff of a routine it'll start being a pain. IMHO:roll:

[BlackHawke]

Johnny its so you can watch the world cup games whilst training your bird this will not apply next year.

your allowed to watch the world cup then steve!!??lol:twisted:

[Hardcore Hawker]

Rob i do as i please when shes not in mate

[Matthew Patching]

Got my bird at twelve weeks spent loads of time with it feed it off the fist. No problems. However I think all her brotheres and sisters did. I think it may be down to getting your bird at a young age.

young age, despite what people will tel you, is nothing to do with screaming, boredom, hunger and lack of hunting opertunities are more to do with screaming than age.

[Matthew Patching]

im picking mine up in two weeks, itwill bethirteen weeks old.do you think i should start the manning nd training streight away on wait a few weeks
thanks

start straight away. It wont need much if any weight reduction, keep things different and dont get stuck in one place for too long.

[Matthew Patching]

1. Manning
2. Step Up To Fist
3. Jump To Fist
4. Fly To Fist In Doors
5. Fly On Creance Line Outdoors
6. Flying Free
7. Fitness
8. Hunting

this should take about 14 days with a 10-12 week old HH

[Matthew Patching]

heres somthing that i posted ages ago.My Method.

Pick the bird up in the early morning and get it home before it gets too hot to travel.

Pick the bird up when it is 10 weeks old, fit the birds furniture whilst at the breeders. Take a measurement of the birds head for its hood whilst doing this.

At this point in its life it will not have put down loads of fat and will be keen to feed after a very short period of hunger.

After arriving home Weigh the bird, then place the bird out in the garden in a quiet area away from any disturbances, go and get a cup of tea, and go and make its hood.

leave the bird until you know that it has cast, If this hasnt happened by 4.30 or 5pm It proberbly isnt going to. so go out and pick the bird up quickly, hood it and go to somwhere quiet. put some nice bloody and well cut up food of a sort that the breeder has been using, on the fist. (Its no good putting quail on the fist if the bird deosnt know what it is)

Remove the hood and entice the bird to look down at its feet by touching them with your bare hand, most 10 week old HH will feed in the first 20 mins of being there, dont give too much at this stage, If it deosnt feed after 20 mins, rehood, remove food and sit with the bird for 10 mins then replace food and try again, I have never needed to go for a third session with a young hh.

After it has finished eating replace hood and put away for the evening in a darkened mews, on a low perch, should she decide to bate at least she will find the flood.

Next morning take her up, weigh her with the hood on, if you have given too much food the day before then you will have to wait until later in the day if not, pick her back up and unhood her, place her back on the scales, and entice her to step up for food. only get her to do this 3 or 4 times, then place her on the bow for about 8 hours and then go out and pick her up and hood her, take her somwhere quiet and unhood her then place her on a perch and entice her to hop to the fist over about 1 foot distances, if doing well make the 4th one a 18" jump and finish. rehood her and put her away.

3rd day weigh her with the hood on, take her out to her perch lat her weather and preen out for a couple of hours, then pick her up, hood her reweigh and take her somwhere different, and call to the fist, you should get her on the creance at this point, and this session should see her coming at least 10 foot over 4 calls. after you have finished take her home whilst pulling at a tiring. Leave her on the lawn perch til late evening and then take the dummy bunny out and carfully get her feeding from it.

4th day do everything as usual and take her somwhere different with the hood on, put her on a perch and call to the fist, by the end of the session see if she will drop down onto the dummy bunny from her perch. later in the day with the creance on entice her to chase the dummy over a short distance on your garden.

5th day, everything as usual, take somwhere different and call to the fist twice, second calling should be about 20 foot, after she arrives and has eaten hood up, place dummy close to her perch, but hidden, and then unhood her, place on the perch, bring dummy out into the open and see if she will drop down and catch it, lesson over if she deos, if she deosnt (unlikely) then pick her up and show her the food on the lure. later in the day, repeat the whole training session in a different area.
6th day. Employ some help from an experienced falconer, or somone that can operate a hood,(take it off) with ease. Take bird to same place as yesterday and stand 10 foot apart, with the hawk hooded on your assistants fist, use your normal call and stay the bird( What this entails is calling the bird whilst still hooded and when it bates towards your call keeping hold of it) then have your assitant unhood the bird whilst you call and present your fist, the reaction will (or should) be instant, repeat this several times, without using the stay before calling, just increase the distance.

Later in the day, reverse the situation and get your assistant to pull the lure, at this point your assistant should use a diferent call for the lure and just do about 3 or 4 lure flights out of the hood, when finished walk home with a tiring. put away for the night.

7th day, Do everything as normal, this should be the day that you try your first free flight, take bird to a place she has been trained at before and place on a low branch, walk 20 or so foot away, and have your assistant throw out the lure for her, you will get a much better response to the lure, the second flight should be to the fist and should contain a larger than normal reward, again her response will be instant, having been encouraged by the sucsesful lure flight. Take off the creance and do a couple of easy lure chases over 20-30 yards. finish for the the day.

Day 8,9 & 10 teach the bird to follow using a fence or hedge with well spaced trees. Finish every session with a couple of lure flights one out of her tree and one hooded off of the fist.

Days 10-14, Increase the number & distance of lure flights steadily, and make it harder for her to catch, continue with free flight, finish each session with a lure flight and carry home with a tiring, at day 14 you should be confident that she will at least try quarry, If not swap dummy with a dead rabbit and let her feed from it.

Day 15, Take her somwhere in the evening where you know that rabbits will be out, I find woodland is better, As all your training sessions over the last 4 or 6 days should have finished before lunch time she will be a little keener than normal, Let her go up into a tree of her choice and let her start self hunting, she will not go far at this stage, and stick with her, If she makes an attempt, but is unsuccesful and the rabbit completely escapes call her down to a moving dead rabbit. If succsesful feed from the kill only enough that she will be hungry to do the same the next day, dont crop her out, at this stage because then you are just wasting time.

day 16. Repeat the attempt and if successful do the same, remembering that if not sucsesful use a dead rabbit to give her sucsessful.

Continue with this until she is looking for quarry as soon as she is in a tree, vary the place that you start, and work in double attempts, (ie if she is unsucsessful in the first instance let her try again, but only if she has started killing), Start free following and move quietly but start gently beating for her, most of the rabbits that you should be getting at this time of year will only be 1/2 grown and will be easy to catch.

once she is free following in woodland, and taking these rabbits on a regular basis, (about a 4 weeks after getting her) move to off the fist flights in the open at rabbits that have come out in the evening, If she fails move back to the woodland and try your luck in there, the object is to catch quarry every evening, at this stage in a birds career it deosnt matter how easy or unsporting the flights are just gaining experience and boosting confidence is all that is important.

By the time the hawking season starts she should be confident, steady and ready to move onto double kill outings with ease, just remember that now she will be seeing you as the quarry provider and you just have to fulfil your role in the team, and the bird will notice when you are not doing your job, so keep things varied and dont get stuck on a particular peice of ground, dont peg the bird out on lawns for days at a time, dont spend 2 much time away from her, and dont let her get bored, this leads to screaming, out of frustration, and will result in a steadily more agressive bird that becomes hard to handle safely. Get out there get her catching, fly her often any blank days should end with a lure flight, dont hammer her into hunting and most of all be sensitive with HER lure & HER kills, the kill never belongs to you, you didnt bloody catch it, dont expect her to step up for a chick leg when she knows that there is alot more under the hawking bag, give her somthing that she realy wants, and teach her different pick up methods, ie stepping up on to the fist, walking off of (hidden) quarry to a ground reward that she is able to eat in its entirety before inspecting the site and stepping up onto the fist.

FEED FROM KILLS, this is important with captive bred birds and builds confidence and reinforces how clever they have been. I feed the heart, lungs and normally a front leg before asking the bird to step up/off for a back leg that I have removed with my knife.

Alot of people will proberbly say that I am taking the bird too young, that is there chioce, but think on this taking a harris at 10 weeks old and having it hunting by 13 weeks will be a far superior (pardom the pun) bird than one that is left in an aviary to get bored and miss that crucial learning curve, will also need to be cut back in weight before training starts and will have its patience & confidence tested to the max whilst it trys to come to grips with now very agile and full grown rabbits that it is being asked to catch, will take much longer to get fit, and subsiquently entered, and may always be a little odd around strange things/people.

While this bird is sat in an aviary till its 20 weeks old its cousin has already learnt its art and has been hunting for 7 weeks before this bird has even been jessed up. 20 week old birds generlay need the 1 -2 week setleing in period to get over the shock, the 10 week old bird needs none as it is at a stage in its life where it would be moving on and becoming an active member of its group or starting out on its own.

Fattening a bird up is not desirable with this aproach as at 10 weeks they need very little (if any) weight reduction to get them going, and as the season progresses they steadily increase in weight as they would naturaly.

[SycoPaff]

Has any one got any tips during the training of harris hawks to help prevent screaming.
thanks
i find the biggest cause of a P/R harris screaming is it is too low in weight! of course this is not always the case but that, i think, is the usuall reason!

[Mikey]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkmaster
1. Manning
2. Step Up To Fist
3. Jump To Fist
4. Fly To Fist In Doors
5. Fly On Creance Line Outdoors
6. Flying Free
7. Fitness
8. Hunting

agree with most of this but i do not see why you need to fly any hh in door first
__________________
happy hawking to you all and remember all that glissens is not gold

I think the reason HM states flying indoors is purely because he aims his advice at the beginner/novice.Safety in mind at all times...from correct safety on the glove to a safe falconers knot on the bow perch.
A begginer is less likely to lose his bird in the first few days (and yes there is obviously less distraction).
Although letting your bird experience all/any situations you can give it from the first moments,is only going to be good! It will get used to the dog,the wife! the cars,fireworks,low flying jet aircraft etc etc!
Follow HM's steps,with a little advice thrown in and you wont go wrong.
SAFETY FIRST !!

[Johnny Abbott]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkmaster
1. Manning
2. Step Up To Fist
3. Jump To Fist
4. Fly To Fist In Doors
5. Fly On Creance Line Outdoors
6. Flying Free
7. Fitness
8. Hunting

agree with most of this but i do not see why you need to fly any hh in door first
__________________
happy hawking to you all and remember all that glissens is not gold

I think the reason HM states flying indoors is purely because he aims his advice at the beginner/novice.Safety in mind at all times...from correct safety on the glove to a safe falconers knot on the bow perch.
A begginer is less likely to lose his bird in the first few days (and yes there is obviously less distraction).
Although letting your bird experience all/any situations you can give it from the first moments,is only going to be good! It will get used to the dog,the wife! the cars,fireworks,low flying jet aircraft etc etc!
Follow HM's steps,with a little advice thrown in and you wont go wrong.
SAFETY FIRST !!follow anyones advice that knows what they are doing and you wont go wrong

[Johnny Abbott]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkmaster
1. Manning
2. Step Up To Fist
3. Jump To Fist
4. Fly To Fist In Doors
5. Fly On Creance Line Outdoors
6. Flying Free
7. Fitness
8. Hunting

agree with most of this but i do not see why you need to fly any hh in door first
__________________
happy hawking to you all and remember all that glissens is not gold

I think the reason HM states flying indoors is purely because he aims his advice at the beginner/novice.Safety in mind at all times...from correct safety on the glove to a safe falconers knot on the bow perch.
A begginer is less likely to lose his bird in the first few days (and yes there is obviously less distraction).
Although letting your bird experience all/any situations you can give it from the first moments,is only going to be good! It will get used to the dog,the wife! the cars,fireworks,low flying jet aircraft etc etc!
Follow HM's steps,with a little advice thrown in and you wont go wrong.
SAFETY FIRST !!follow anyones advice that know what they are doing and you want go wrong