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Dave Whitt
16-05-2005, 07:16 PM
Ok some people have asked for details of my mews after seeing the pictures,

Overhall dimensions:- 12` x 6` x 7`

You need to make 5 frames out of 2x2 tannerlized timber:-
Two 12`x 7`
One of which will need 4 uprights at equal distances,
The other will need an upright at 27" from one of the outside edges for the door then a cross piece with a series of 25mm deep holes driledl with 3" gaps (mesuring from center to center) using a 19mm bit. these holes will need to be mirrored on the frame, do not insert the cross piece at this stadge.

Two 5`8" x 7`
One with 3 uprights at equal distances,
The other will need a crosspiece with a series of 25mm deep holes driledl with 3" gaps (mesuring from center to center) using a 19mm bit. these holes will need to be mirrored on the frame, do not insert the cross piece at this stadge.

One 11`8" x 5`8"
With 4 uprights at equal distances (this frame can be put to one side.

(All mesurments to the outside edge)

The bas are made of 3/4" galvanised tube with a 3mm wall cut into 1.2m lenghts, you will need about 65, to insert the bars place the frame so the holes are facing upwards and tap the bars gently into the holes about 15mm, then place the cross piece over and working from one end insert the bars into the cross piece ( I found it easier after the first 7 - 10 bars are located to put a tempoary screw in the end so it cant lift up) once all the pars are located tap the cross piece down until both end mesure 1.25m from outside egde to outside edge.

Do this with both the long ans short side.

Bolt the two 12`x 7` and the two 6` x 7` sides together to give rectangle 12` x 6` (with the bars at the top :D ) I drilled 14mm holes and used M10 bolts with oversize washers

Next cland the remaining space with tong and groove (or other material of your choice) except the door for this you will need to make a frame 24" x 6` insert the bars into the door in the same way as the sides and hang in the frame a piece will then need to be inserted under the door and this gap clad.
When cladding the sides if you are bolting the frame together so it can be dismantled only nail the cladding to the relivant side.

Finally lay the remaining frame down, using two 6`and two 8` corrigated sheets cover the frame next insert blocks onto the inside edge of the erected pen 2" from the top for the roof to sit on next lift the roof into place (try to find a helper I didi this on my own and it`s bl**dy heavy) then dril and bolt together using 10 M10 bolts.

I hope this is ok for those who asked for details, any questions ????




OutFlying
16-05-2005, 07:20 PM
"I hope this is ok for those who asked for details, any questions ???? "

Did your wife not want the fence staining at the same time ? :D

Dave Whitt
16-05-2005, 07:28 PM
I have added that to the long list of odd jobs she thinks I will get round to doing one day

Shaun Byrne
16-05-2005, 07:34 PM
Just one question, which way does the roof fall :D

Dave Whitt
16-05-2005, 07:38 PM
I did not incorporate a slope in the design as my patio slopes, so I did not need to, easy solution incorporate one into your footings, or use 3 x 2 at one end of the roof frame allowing you to lift it by 1"

Jastreb
16-05-2005, 08:43 PM
Thanks mate!

OhMyGod
15-06-2005, 03:16 AM
JACKOBEAN

Is that an imprint gos?

Do you not find that the hawk bates at the poles when free lofted to moult as the bars go down quite a long way for a parent reared?

I would have thought a smaller weathering design would have been better for tethering a gos as you are into their 'personal space' as soon as you go in. With a large aviary like this you have to walk up to the gos approaching it's personal space increasing the chance of a bate. And making it nervous every time you go in the pen, as you are in it's pen but not into it's 'personal space' yet, but approaching it, giving the opportunity to make it nervous.

Also does it not bate to the high shelf? or is it removable?


Just curious mate as I don't know, any answers would be appreciated.

Ben C
15-06-2005, 08:17 AM
Jackobean....................mine is very similar (except for the bars, which I may change this season)......Have you ever thought of tiling it in the corners or in the areas where the hawk slices?

Even though I go in and clean dailty and a 'proper' scrub on a sat, the mutes have stained the wood (and I treated mine on the inside also), this is a general question mate?

(OF so a parent reared hawk will bate more than an imprint when you enter their space, another reason eh mate???? :) :) :) :) (joking playful dig mate) ).

OutFlying
15-06-2005, 09:05 AM
BenC,
Why not fit plastic sheeting to the mews walls behind your perches, very easy to clean, cheap and quick to replace if needed. Just staple to the wooded sides.

OF.

Miguel Gomez
15-06-2005, 10:39 AM
Good idea, but cody has a thing for sheeting and pulls at it and tears it!!! Tiles may be a bit more hard wearing and I reckon would look better, something cheap and nasty about blue plastic sheeting (IMO). I will give it a thought mate :) :)

OutFlying
15-06-2005, 11:24 AM
Use black sheeting then, if you fix a few slate batons against your aviary wall and staple the sheeting to it - it won't be loose or flap about and if you take your time will look a proper job :lol: their would be no loose edges for your harris to pick at . I don't know how tiles would fare stuck to a wooden structure that is open to the weather, wood expands, contracts and warps to some degree. Maybe a flexible waterproof grout would work, I haven't tried it.

Ben C
15-06-2005, 11:31 AM
I have got tiles on the inside of his winter weathering and your right, it took a tonne of grout to get and even surface, but it is very clean and looks good. Alternatively I could use a bit of MDF screwed onto the sides where he slices and cover that in tiles I suppose. :) :) :)

OutFlying
15-06-2005, 11:39 AM
BenC,
If you have an part open top avairy, tiling wouldn't be an easy option on the exposed sections with perches - the sheeting is a tried and tested method it works well.

OF.

HawkMan
15-06-2005, 11:39 AM
Ive got tarpoling in mine m8 might look a bit cheap but i only use Asda toilet rolls me self ,pmsl tarp stops your wood work getting stained and is easy to clean

OutFlying
15-06-2005, 11:48 AM
another advantage of using plastic sheeting is it provides a soft buffer if you hawk decides to fly straight into the avairy wall if something upsets it, when free lofted.

Ben C
15-06-2005, 12:36 PM
:) :)........because my weathering is 'trapped' by surrounding walls no 'weather' gets in (as yet!!!!). Have a look on my album for a picture.

I reckon I'll plastic sheet in one corner and tile in the other and see what happens after a year!!

But if they can tile a swimming pool then I have a feeling that it could work. Something to do on those very wet days eh fellas.?

Not sure if there is much difference made by a plastic sheets if a hawk bumps into the wall. Not that he does that being SSSSSOOOOO well bred and trained etc etc etc, blah, blah, blah :) :) :) :)

I should train him to clean up after himself really, get him to wipe his bum as well. :) :) :) :)

Jonny in our house I have a group of midgets that use the unborn flesh of wolf pups to wipe our arses. :) :) :)

HawkMan
15-06-2005, 01:12 PM
Think your a bit to posh for me benc if you can tile your mews m8 mines made out straw m8 must be nice living the high life ,lol
As for your family of dwarfs m8 must be hard for them to clean the mews ,pmsl havent the hawks attack them yet thinking there squirrels

Ben C
15-06-2005, 02:54 PM
We have not had any problems with our dwarves as they are female and walk about in the nude....I shall be bringing them along to the bash to help Martin Hollinshead load his slides up. OOM PAA OOM PAA DUMPITY DOO IVE GOT A HARRIS ESPECIALLY FOR YOU :) :) :) :)

HawkMan
15-06-2005, 03:31 PM
Bet you think your funny dont you ,well listen m8 i cant wait to meet you but dont be expecting a warm welcome m8 ,your cards are marked ?????????????????????????????????????

Ben C
15-06-2005, 04:26 PM
Warm welcome???? Never Sir, you by all accounts are lower than a snakes balls. So if you want a fight it will be ten paces and fire. I have water pistols and will be ready to use them. Wileman said you may need a wash as you pong a bit!!!

HawkMan
15-06-2005, 04:57 PM
Lol ya skip rat
Buy me a pint at the meet and we,ll shake hands .

Ben C
15-06-2005, 05:03 PM
Now none of this karate stuff I have heard about......how about 2 pints and an arm wrestle. :) :) :)

HawkMan
15-06-2005, 05:07 PM
2nd dan at oragami m8 .
Bet you i make the best plane ya skip rat who flies a crow as a bop ,pmsl

Ben C
15-06-2005, 05:09 PM
:)

Dave Whitt
15-06-2005, 07:58 PM
You lot have been out in the sun for far too long !!

Dave Whitt
15-06-2005, 08:07 PM
JACKOBEAN

Is that an imprint gos?

Do you not find that the hawk bates at the poles when free lofted to moult as the bars go down quite a long way for a parent reared?

I would have thought a smaller weathering design would have been better for tethering a gos as you are into their 'personal space' as soon as you go in. With a large aviary like this you have to walk up to the gos approaching it's personal space increasing the chance of a bate. And making it nervous every time you go in the pen, as you are in it's pen but not into it's 'personal space' yet, but approaching it, giving the opportunity to make it nervous.

Also does it not bate to the high shelf? or is it removable?


Just curious mate as I don't know, any answers would be appreciated.

He is an imprint, he very very rarley ever flys at the bars if he does he always puts his feet up and turns away from them, he is free lofted all year round and never gets nervious when I go in in fact he will come over too me even at top weight.
If it was a parent reared gos I would advise moulting it in a seclusion aviery and never on a bow even if it was incredabally well manned it would probabally just smash its self to pieces

The New Kid
17-06-2005, 09:08 PM
How much did that set you back, mate? it looks good =o)

Gozzhawk
17-06-2005, 09:34 PM
dont put perches in the corners , put perches in middle or somewhere where mutes/slice wont hit walls, problem solved!!

donnamariehayes@hotmail.c
19-09-2009, 11:08 AM
what is the best bird to begin with.

SnakeHuts
19-09-2009, 11:14 AM
Jackobean....................mine is very similar (except for the bars, which I may change this season)......Have you ever thought of tiling it in the corners or in the areas where the hawk slices?

Even though I go in and clean dailty and a 'proper' scrub on a sat, the mutes have stained the wood (and I treated mine on the inside also), this is a general question mate?

(OF so a parent reared hawk will bate more than an imprint when you enter their space, another reason eh mate???? :) :) :) :) (joking playful dig mate) ).

Get it fibreglass linned Ben, that will sort it know a guy in Shropshire who will do it for you.

AndyHawks
19-09-2009, 11:19 AM
what is the best bird to begin with.
why dont you start a new thread asking questions in the begginer bit.

Dave G
19-09-2009, 01:09 PM
ive just cleaned my pen out and removed a perch and fitted a new one plastic sheeting on the back walls easy to clean and replace ;)

Ben C
19-09-2009, 08:02 PM
ive just cleaned my pen out and removed a perch and fitted a new one plastic sheeting on the back walls easy to clean and replace ;)

MINT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dave your a god.:rolleyes::lol:

Tony350i
19-09-2009, 08:12 PM
hi,
can you tell me what the space you have got between the bars
------------------------------

"how did i over look that"

The other will need a crosspiece with a series of 25mm deep holes driledl with 3" gaps (mesuring from center to center) using a 19mm bit. these holes will need to be mirrored on the frame, do not insert the cross piece at this stadge.


thanks Tony

Vulpine Hunter
19-09-2009, 11:40 PM
Ok some people have asked for details of my mews after seeing the pictures,

Overhall dimensions:- 12` x 6` x 7`

You need to make 5 frames out of 2x2 tannerlized timber:-
Two 12`x 7`
One of which will need 4 uprights at equal distances,
The other will need an upright at 27" from one of the outside edges for the door then a cross piece with a series of 25mm deep holes driledl with 3" gaps (mesuring from center to center) using a 19mm bit. these holes will need to be mirrored on the frame, do not insert the cross piece at this stadge.

Two 5`8" x 7`
One with 3 uprights at equal distances,
The other will need a crosspiece with a series of 25mm deep holes driledl with 3" gaps (mesuring from center to center) using a 19mm bit. these holes will need to be mirrored on the frame, do not insert the cross piece at this stadge.

One 11`8" x 5`8"
With 4 uprights at equal distances (this frame can be put to one side.

(All mesurments to the outside edge)

The bas are made of 3/4" galvanised tube with a 3mm wall cut into 1.2m lenghts, you will need about 65, to insert the bars place the frame so the holes are facing upwards and tap the bars gently into the holes about 15mm, then place the cross piece over and working from one end insert the bars into the cross piece ( I found it easier after the first 7 - 10 bars are located to put a tempoary screw in the end so it cant lift up) once all the pars are located tap the cross piece down until both end mesure 1.25m from outside egde to outside edge.

Do this with both the long ans short side.

Bolt the two 12`x 7` and the two 6` x 7` sides together to give rectangle 12` x 6` (with the bars at the top :D ) I drilled 14mm holes and used M10 bolts with oversize washers

Next cland the remaining space with tong and groove (or other material of your choice) except the door for this you will need to make a frame 24" x 6` insert the bars into the door in the same way as the sides and hang in the frame a piece will then need to be inserted under the door and this gap clad.
When cladding the sides if you are bolting the frame together so it can be dismantled only nail the cladding to the relivant side.

Finally lay the remaining frame down, using two 6`and two 8` corrigated sheets cover the frame next insert blocks onto the inside edge of the erected pen 2" from the top for the roof to sit on next lift the roof into place (try to find a helper I didi this on my own and it`s bl**dy heavy) then dril and bolt together using 10 M10 bolts.

I hope this is ok for those who asked for details, any questions ????

Looks good mate, think I'll maybe do my next one linke this.